In the thrill, buzz and glamour of this year’s L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival, the pervading question was: how do you dress in these tough economic times? Be prudent? Deny or defy? The response was conveyed in multiple perspectives from local and international designers alike.
With a filmic motif, the key runway looks were classic black and white ensembles, with splashes of fuchsia, orange and cobalt blue. As anticipated, tights in all colours and prints dominated and sky-high heels were ubiquitous on every runway. The most notable debuts were tapered tailored trousers, tuxedo jackets and a revival of the classic trench coat. They say that fashion is a reflection of the times, but despite the doom and gloom, fashion still managed to put on a brave and pretty face.


It was all gangbusters on Runway 5, the most striking of them all, and a welcome reprieve from the glitz of earlier shows. The surprising but slick show featured designers ALPHA60, ANT!PODIUM, Fool, Friedrich Gray, Jack London, NOM*d, S!X and Therese Rawsthorne. Fool discombobulated the audience with their playful use of colour and fabrics, pom-poms, heavy knits, soft toys and other eye-opening paraphernalia.
Giving their sartorial take on dire straits was ALPHA60. The Alphalites expanded on their usual palette of blacks, greys and pristine whites, by accentingtheir collection with checks, prints, and frills. NOM*d’s resilient collection was military inspired, replete with ripped-up and layered embellished detail.
Runway 7 combined international and Australia labels including Alice McCall, Christine, Claude Maus, Collette Dinnigan, Cose Ipanema, Maticevski, Viktor & Rolf, Willow and Zambesi. McCall presented a very ‘now’ look, flattering silhouettes with hints of geometry, her new collection reinstating her reputation for making modern pretty. Dinnigan delivered a predictably outstanding
collection with her stunning use of metallic sequins and leather. She paid cues to present trends while still working within a classic framework, reminding audiences why she is labelled as one of Australia’s most prominent fashion designers.
They say hard times prompt a flourishing of ideas and creativity but this year’s 2009 independent showcase was somewhat disappointing. In the past, the Independent runway show has always presented the most fashion forward collections, defiantly challenging the status quo. This year saw a restraint that did not produce what we have all become accustomed to – difference
and innovation. This is not to say the collections were lacklustre, but there seemed to be a reluctance to push the boundaries of the design scope, as seen in previous years. With that said, there were real gems. A welcome reprieve from the sea of mediocre came from the House of Baulch who bedazzled in a dramatic collection of jewellery and lycra body suits in all colours of precious jewels: ruby, amethyst and gold.
Limedrop’s Huntsman collection delivered an oxymoronic twist to the punk-rock look, combining bow ties and frills with plaid and leather. Carly Hunter’s collection oscillated between the masculinity and feminine and was the most accessible in its versatility and simplicity. Ellergy’s ‘Under the Cherry Moon’ prettily adorned the runway catwalk with its glamorous but modern
ensembles; a highlight was a gold, sequined backless long-sleeve dress and metallic copper trousers that left audiences transfixed. Kuwaii continued the colour theme with a beguiling showcase of bright shift dresses. However it was Dion Lee’s understated collection, which was the show-stealer. Like all good design, Lee’s pieces were meticulously constructed with careful attention to detailing – a worthy recipient of the Westfield Chermside Australian Fashion Graduate of The Year Award.
Generally, LMFF delivered a mixed bag of the good, the bad and the damn right outrageous. There were moments which saw collections going down the ‘anything really is possible!’ trajectory and, at other moments, the audience tasted a very real sense of, ‘perhaps there really is such a thing as too much’. Designers either took a practical (some would argue safe) approach (layers
and timeless pieces to last a decade of recessions) or defied the Global Financial Crisis with bold prints, bright colours, and luxurious silks. The more avant-garde revealed a ‘do-it-yourself’ approach, translated in pinned-up and shredded fabrics. And, as always, the majority of the local designers stuck to the Melbourne black, a reassuring staple in this unstable economic climate.
L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival
fashion@lmff.com.au
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